The Original Online Source For
Legends Cars Information
Back By Popular Demand
to bring to the races
information is based on postings from various news groups and
from the Legends Cars Mail list.
Thanks to everyone who
Since these cars are made from pieces parts of other
cars, the best thing to do is take off your bent/busted or worn out piece and bring
it with you to your local parts dealer to compare. Some of the
earlier cars have different parts then some of the newer
Brakes:Most cars use
front and rear 76-81 Toyota Celica/Corolla
Note: Sources inform us that not all
Legends Cars have the same brakes on
Here is some info we received from
My front brakes are off 76-79 Supra/Celica
Rear are 76-81 Celica
Rear ends are
supposedly the same from 76-81.
Front ends have minor
differences between 79 and 80.
79 and older are different
then 80 and newer.
At least that's what I have dug up so
Thanks to Gary (The Computer
A question also came up about the
little shims that hold the front brake pads in
Tell them you want caliper slides for a 76-81 Supra/Celica
without sensors, that should get you want you want..
Thanks Again to Gary (The Computer
Friction - Carbon Metallic
PBR Metal Masters
D 247 M
(for the newer chassis, remote
72 V.W. Beetle (not a super
beetle, right Pete!)
Auto Zone 11-1559
NOPI 113 611 015
(for the older chassis, 2 ports, reservoir
mounted directly on top)
Rear Wheel Brake Cylinder:
TRW Tie Rod End
TRW Tie Rod End #ES2847R
(please note: the tie rod ends available
from 600 racing are designed to be weaker then the TRW tie rod
ends. 600 Racing says this is to reduce the impact to the
other parts of the car and to the driver)
Purolator ML16809 (For Factory On Engine
FRAM PH-8A, Wix #51515(r) (External Oil Filter from
Here are the bearing and race numbers for a complete
rebuild of a rear end(Thanks
to David VanAmburg #56k)
1 Bearing KOYO M86649RT-N
1 Race KOYO
1 Bearing KOYO HiCap HM88649-N
1 Race KOYO
2 Bearing KOYO HiCap LM501349-N
Race KOYO HiCap LM501310-N
Mogul 1955 (other numbers on box, 7 24956 06147
When viewed from
the f ront of the car, camber
is the angle of the front tires leaning left or right.
Negative camber has the top of the tire leaning in toward the
center of the car, positive camber has the top of the tire
leaning away from the car. For oval racing you want negative
camber on the right front corner and positive camber on the
left front corner.
When viewed from the side
of the car, caster is the angle or tilt of the spindle
assembly leaning toward the rear of the car (Positive Caster)
or toward the front of the car (Negative Caster). Positive
Caster results in making the front wheels straighten out
easier but, makes it harder to turn the wheel.
When viewed from the front of the
car, the leading edge of the front tires are aiming out
(toe-out) or aiming toward
each other (toe-in).
Car won't seem to turn when you go
into or as you exit a corner. Feels like the front end is
plowing and sliding straight
ahead. Less traction on the front tires than the rear.
when the suspension compresses (like under hard braking),
causing the control arms and tie-rods to move vertically. Because
they differ in length and location, the result is the rim/tire
being steered without any movement of the steering wheel. Cars
having control arms and tie-rods parallel to the road will
exhibit minimal bumpsteer.
Rear end of car slides or skids out
from under you as you enter or exit a corner. Feels
like you will spin out, you
must turn into the direction of the skid (Turn wheels right if
rear end is sliding to the right) and back off throttle to
catch the rear of the car. Less traction on the rear tires
than on the front tires.
Cross weight is the combined weight
of the left rear corner and the right front corner as a
percentage of the total vehicle weight. More cross weight
results in a tight race car, less cross weight results in a
loose race car. Wedge is the adjustment made to change vehicle
cross weight. Adding wedge
to the left rear will transfer more weight to the right front
corner. Wedge is added or removed by adjusting the
Difference in the
diameter of the right side tires verses the left side
A Good Place To Start
These are some
good settings to start out with.
|Set Toe Out to
Left Side Wheelbase: 73"
|Right Side Wheelbase: 72
How to make adjustments:
Disconnect the upper link,
loosen the jam
and rotate to adjust.
|This is where
Same deal, loosen
This one here
for Toe in/out.
Once again loosen
jam nuts at each end
and turn the rod to
adjust in or out.
Always make sure
you tighten the
nuts back up!!!!
All these shots are from
left side of the
Setting Toe in-out:
Recommendations are for 1/4" to 3/4" toe
out for Oval racing.
Jack the front of the car up and take a can of spray paint,
spin the tire and paint the center of the tread, use a jack
stand for support and a screw driver as a scribe, spin the
tire again with the screw driver making a scribe line in the
center of the tread where you painted. After doing this to both sides put the
car back on its wheels and roll back and forth to settle
suspension. Use a tape measure to measure the distance between
the lines at the back of the tire (the tape needs as close to
the bottom of the frame as you can get). Then measure the
distance across the front of the tire. The difference is the
toe measurement. You want at least a 1/4 inch toe out (the
front easurement is greater) for a high bank 1/4 mile or
maybe 3/4 for a 1/5 mile flat. The rest of the set up will
also affect the amount of toe out needed.
Steve Benson #65
Take a piece of string and have someone hold it at the rear
of the car to cross the center of the rear wheel. Pull it
across the front wheel on the right side and make sure the
front wheel touches the string both front and rear. This sets
your baseline straight ahead. Now place the string on the left
side. When the string touches the front tire, which should be
front side first, the distance between the string and the rear
side will be your toe out, if it touches the rear first, you
are toed in. I run anywhere from 1/4 out to 3/4 out. More for
Thanks to Dan Curtis
Swapping out the Rear Chunk:
Put a short length of 2x2 wood under each axle before
jacking up the car. This will keep the housing level when
jacked up. Use high quality jack stands under both frame
rails, not the bumper - we'd like to keep you around.
You have to disconnect the driveshaft from the pinion shaft
flange first. Drain out the oil from the housing. Then pull
both rear brake drums and remove four nuts holding a plate
that retains the wheel bearing on each side.You have to remove
both halves of the drive axles before you can remove the
differential carrier. Finally, remove the differential
carrier. Be careful, as you can drop it on your face, and it
is fairly heavy.
Installation of the new carrier and gear set is the reverse
of the disassembly. Clean the carrier and housing mating
surfaces and apply some silicone sealant prior to assembly.
Also clean the wheel bearing retainers and housing mating
surfaces and apply silicone. Pay special attention to torque
the bolts (evenly) that hold the driveshaft to the pinion
shaft flange. Remember to load up the housing with new lube.
Thanks to Stan Disbrow
Setting Cam Timing:
By advancing the intake cam you can increase the length of
the compression srtoke (you open the valve sooner) and get
more power from the engine. You need slotted cam sprokets to
accompish this as well as a degree wheel and dial
Foxco charges $100 to set cam timing with the engine out of
Now for the rest of us.
This following is done at your own risk and just because I
got lucky and it worked is no sign that you will be
successful. Take your cam cover off, remove plugs and
crank the engine over (22mm wrench on the cam [I have had a
cam jump a tooth on the sprocket doing this]).
There is a
hole in the #3 cam bearing and a dimple in the camshaft. (The
white fj1200 book at your Legends dealer is a good refernece).
At Top Dead Center the two dimples should be centered in
the hole on both cams. This is stock timing.
To adjust the timing you need slotted cam sprockets
although you can sometimes get a little adjustment from the
slop in the stock sprokets holes. You need to move the intake
till the dimple is touching the spark plug side of the hole.
This is not very accurate and the engine people are screaming
about now. If you can
look at an engine with the "rocked cams" this is where they
appear. Be sure to check compression after doing this because
you can exceed the 180 pound limit and will need to back off
I believe that 111 intake and 106 exhaust are
the actual degrees we are trying to accomlish.
Thanks to Dan Curtis
Extra Things You Might
want to bring to the Races:
The first time out
is a bad time to find out you forgot something.
see if your track has a parts trailer and what parts are
Metric/US socket set (make sure you have one
that fits the spark splugs 18mm)
36mm Socket that will fit
inside the drive shaft coupler
8mm to 22 mm
metric wrench set
American combination wrench set (make
sure the 3/4 fits your hand, this is the one that fits most
things), you might want to add
a long 3/4 box end
Small and a BIG hammer
Tie rod fork
(the tuning fork looking thing with a long
Roll of racing tape
(get the appropriate color to match your car!!!)
(go for the dial type with a bleeder)
Pair of side
Roll of kite string and a 12 foot tape measure to
Automatic transmission funnel to put oil in
A few pounds of nuts and bolts
and washers various lengths from 1 to 3 inches and 1/4 to 1/2
4 Jack Stands
Extra Heim Joints (rod
Upper/Lower Ball Joints
Ice Packs (in the
summer you can drop one in your suit)
Air Tank or small Air compressor